Deborah Ioschpe: Diverse & Sustainable Beauty
Brazillian designer, Deborah Ioschpe, aspires to incorporate diversity and quality through her multi-dimensional and multi-purpose products. With a natural gift for eclectic design, Ioschpe creates original and sustainable jewelry, handbags, and décor. Below she discusses the meaning of her work and unique style.
We love your Animalium Collection. What inspired you to use mammoth ivory in the creation of these pieces? How did you come to decide on using an eclectic mix of motifs, such as frogs, peanuts, and butterflies?
I believe that prehistoric animals, like gems, are real witnesses to the history of humanity and the planet. They keep secrets and sensations that we can’t even imagine. It is necessary to bring these elements to where we can see, feel and use what comes from the earth. Bringing a mammoth to the 21st century using techniques from this era that combine with prehistoric material, and gems also with fantastic lapidary techniques – represents this odyssey; this great feat of the greatest of material treasures. They show us counterpoints that make us reflect in many spheres, and then we learn about many things and imagine others – a complete job for the brain; stimulated by the mineral that makes energy. And then they live harmoniously together, unique. And then I print my vision, my design; my way of understanding and pronouncing, inviting to a great message. My style has always been eclectic, but somewhat an “organized eclectic” that has always led me to different subjects such as themes, raw materials, mixtures, etc. Everything refers to life on earth and space, in its various forms, literally in all senses; moving from theme, material, technique, design and result. Not forgetting sustainability in the choice and manufacture of parts; if not, the process was unsuccessful.
Besides jewelry, you also design handbags and home décor. What inspired you to encompass multi-dimensional and multi-purpose design? Do you have a preference for what you enjoy creating the most?
Everything seems very interesting to me; the will to create is constant. Since I was a child I have always been very curious to test materials, ways of handling and especially different uses and ways to change the matter in its many aspects, but mainly the spatial. Everything is nothing and nothing can be everything. In my point of view, gems are not limited to jewelry, they can be worked in other ways for other uses, but always with printed preciousness. I see flexibility in the use of different materials, so that everything interests me. In these spheres, I fit people’s use and life, wishing that everyone has gems and minerals (whether big or small, rare or normal), because people are chosen by stones, and vice versa, and there is a clear interface in this; generating well-being, beauty, energy and other vital and precious fact
FROG BRACELET, WITH 18K GOLD, CARVED, MAMMOTH, AND EMERALD
ors to life. The jewels have a design, more detailed work from beginning to end, often presenting challenges that are the most rewarding part to be solved, along with aesthetics – there is always functionality; or there is no design. This is very stimulating. The bags are very fun and quick to create, at the moment, putting together all the necessary parts and often without drawing; which triggers a varied, eclectic, unique production and even though the process is not so thorough, charming and pleasant. I imagine it must be a great movement of synapses and many hormones released, and I must say that with all this I can have a very precise idea of the final result and a greater control. Both are together in the creation to reach the internal and external objective. I emphasize that when I was a child, I created lots of jewelry and bags, and stone decorations for my dolls. My first internship was in interior decoration, and when I graduated in design I had an interior design and jewelry office for a long time.
We noticed a lot of dyed agate pieces in your home décor collection, which beautifully accentuates the gem’s banding. What inspired you to do this and use agate for function?
I am very fascinated by the magic of the agate. The surprises it offers, because it easily transforms itself due to the colors, cuts and quantities of mass and salts. Thus, it shows its incredible details that are accentuated by the techniques of dyeing, metallization, precise cutting, well executed work and of course the light that makes the show happen. I consider the agate to be a natural chameleon masterpiece. And I have no problem using different devices to make them more interesting and versatile without forgetting their natural preciosity.
BLUE DEEPER AGATE BOOK HOLDER
Do you join forces with your clients to create bespoke designs? If so, what was one of your most memorable commissions?
Yes, I establish and believe in different looks and emotional forces that come together to aggregate, learn, improve and qualify, as a catalyst. I have had many partnerships with customers, stores, designers, factories and at the moment I am establishing a very broad partnership because I offer consultancy in many aspects, design, improvements in manufacturing and better choice of gems. It’s very rewarding and interesting, because I work on several fronts and I have in mind a specific audience that I believe is very interesting to work with. My partnership with an excellent spa was also memorable, a line production of cosmetics combining stones with salts (which, among many functions, also maintain the qualities of the stones that they carry). They are natural products, special in every way, including their punctual production and thoroughness. It is a limited edition product line that can be continued at any time. As I imagine, expanding the uses and sensations of gems and minerals to a larger audience, lies the true uniqueness of this experience.
Diversity and sustainability seem important to you. How do you integrate that into your business?
Yes, they are very important. I deal with precious and unique, pure materials and this type of activity refers to this; diversity with quality is crucial to reach values, audiences and other specific desires proposed – making clear the magnitude of the material and its diversity of uses and purposes. In several spheres, as it is a whole. Internal and external. Without forgetting the whole process, including how we received this material from nature; it is a whole to admire and reflect on. If stones give me so much, my minimum duty is to take care of them while keeping sustainability in mind – I want the best for them and the best for everyone. Because nothing in this sphere works without seriousness, competence, attitude and respect.
As a Brazilian, how has the Brazilian culture, nature, and local gemstones inspired you?
Yes, for sure, everything is highly inspiring! It is a great privilege to live in a continental country, as naturally rich as Brazil; and highly inspiring in all the ways that nature presents itself, influencing many aspects that I observe. The culture is very different in each part of the country and is also accompanied by the type of vegetation, climate, gems and minerals of these regions. This is a paradise for anyone who observes and draws varied bonds with this whole load. The discharge is immense and it could not be different, as the natural diversity as a whole and the lives of the people who inhabit these places and these cultures are the basis of creative thinking and observation. Thoughts pop up, details are noted and observed; like human life where I walk. Even outside Brazil, I
BOLERO BRACELET
also draw curiosities and thoughts between these places; I notice that ingesting everything that is inspiring is an incessant and continuous movement. There are times for distinct processing, such as digestion – which is not linear. It just springs up when there is a project to be designed, solutions to think about, an audience to reach among everything that comprises the process of ingesting knowledge, creating, manufacturing and so on. Brazil is a great banquet!
What is the most important part of your creative process? What is your mantra?
Without a doubt, the most important part of creation is the complete observation of interest, what I see and feel for some reason. The context of this, the notes and references, the design of what inspires and immediately the thought of how it should present itself in different forms and uses; contextualization. My mantra is broad, multifocal as I also work. Everything is nothing and nothing is everything that covers the internal and the external, with technique, knowledge, caprice and competence. Honestly just feeling the line and the certainty that everything is visceral, and provides unique and different sensations to each individual. Diversity and possibilities rule this whole; that in the end is everything.
What is a key moment, or story, that impacted the way you run your business as an entrepreneur?
My father, a businessman, always repeated, “We are hours behind Japan; they have the privilege of this time so that you have to be the best possible to get in step with those who are in front and have privileges.” Later, when I won my first jewelry contest, where the drawings were anonymous, there was a jeweler and gemologist who I’ve known since I was a child. I went to talk to the geodes where she worked. I thanked her for everything, and she replied to me: competence and talent are natural, you don’t thank them; you deserve and provide others with what you have to offer and be appreciated. The walk is long and must start early so that you can present what was presented to you. Make good use of it.
As a brand, what does Deborah Ioschpe Design stand for, in today’s culture and society? What do you want the company culture to be known for?
As a brand, I want to show that today talent, the world, life is hybrid and multifaceted – we want to be a lens that makes it to be seen and perceived. Vanguard, originality and talent are not enough, without the broadest seriousness and a commitment to a whole and for a whole. Like everything, it’s a combo. I want the company’s culture to be known for all this, and remembered for all this. Expiring the need for absolute and total quality in all aspects involved, be it in the bureaucratic or creative matter. Because what I have is the construction of a name and the company takes this name and therefore it must be much more than the design; showing all its differentials and qualifications that go beyond the name.
HANDMADE MADEMOISELLE BROWN-SUGAR HANDBAG
Who do you want to have to wear your pieces, and for what event? How does this person speak to you, and to your current customers?
I was obese for a long time. I designed and had my clothes made, because clearly the market did not serve the obese. The designers and entrepreneurs had a vision that their products were going to be denigrated and, thus, they would not be desired by the target audience that was not obese, quite the opposite. This made me think about how things work, how to fit in, and to be able to be a part of your individuality highlighted never as a defect, but as another point to please. So, I want people of all faiths, races, ages, sizes and everything that makes up a real human being, who are satisfied with themselves and in peace, to use my pieces and to decide the occasions that they want to use such pieces. These people are not going to improve their lives by using my pieces. I just want them to fit into their lives, and be happy that they are using my pieces. That they decide when, where, how, and why they want to use these pieces. They are yours, they want to be a part of something bigger that doesn’t fit in your ego or wallet. Everything is part of an internal and external beauty with a lot of respect for the comfort of the decision. I hope that these people are my clients, because they communicate with me in this way: desiring beauty in general and that they should always choose what they like most regardless of what they hear. Since antiquity, the use of jewelry has been observed in order to modify the human appearance for some reason, for some purpose. Let it be an emerging positive authenticity, because everything is wide, starting with the word fit. You must not attend me, but I must attend you in the best possible way, for you!
Deborah Ioschpe turns sustainability and eclectic materials into diverse, meaningful, quality pieces. To learn out more about her meaningful designs, visit http://deboraioschpebrands.com.br/.