Editorial

Maison Tjoeng: The Modern Classic

Meet Yasmin Tjoeng, the visionary designer behind Maison Tjoeng, which exhibited this summer at the Couture show in Las Vegas. Yasmin draws inspiration from nature, poetry, art, and traditional cultures to create contemporary fine jewelry that stands out. Her unique approach combines precious stones and metals of the highest quality, resulting in timeless pieces that are both modern and classic.

You’ve said that people are drawn the most to pieces that are true to your brand aesthetic. How do you see this aesthetic defined and has it changed or evolved over time? 

The Maison Tjoeng aesthetic can be characterised as new classics or modern vintage. While all Maison Tjoeng pieces cater to contemporary clients, my inherent design style imparts a sculptural or sensual aesthetic reminiscent of the 1950s to the 1990s. I always design with the goal of creating unique pieces that are not bound by trends, ensuring they remain timeless and enduring.

You recently showed at the Couture show at the Wynn in Las Vegas, something you started doing in 2019. What surprised you this year and how has your approach to showing changed since then?

The Couture show has significantly contributed to my growth over the years. Beginning in the design atelier provided a gentle introduction to the industry, helping me understand my position and refine my design aesthetic. Although I initially felt intimidated in the presence of seasoned and famous designers, over time, I gained confidence in presenting my artwork to the world.

You’re a relatively new designer in the industry and have already created a big space for the brand. Is there anyone you looked up to or went to for mentorship as you established your brand?

Thank you, that is very kind! When I first started, I was inspired by designers like Elsa Peretti, whose contemporary wearable art has stood the test of time. At the Design Atelier at Couture, I had the privilege of participating in speed mentoring sessions where I met some incredible designers. Jorge Adeler was especially remarkable, as he took the time to discuss strategies and share his experiences in detail to guide me. Beyond that, I have always admired designers who prioritise the integrity of their art above all else, demonstrating extraordinary conviction and strength.

You grew up and studied in a number of different places, notably Papua New Guinea, Australia, and Singapore. How do you think this background has informed your design decisions in the US and do you see any substantial differences between the two markets?

My multicultural upbringing has profoundly influenced my design style, affecting everything from the ‘presence’ of a piece to its styling and quality. This background has shaped my aesthetic and instilled integrity in my work. I enjoy blending the ceremonial elements of Papua New Guinean culture with the minimal, laid-back style of Australia. This fusion brings a unique aspect to my brand, helping me stand out in the US market. I’ve noticed that US clients appreciate unique pieces they can mix and match with items from major European jewelry houses. While Australians typically wear less jewelry and represent a smaller market, there’s a growing interest in independent designers.

You place a particular emphasis on creating hand-crafter pieces and finishing pieces with traditional methods, which is one of the things that makes your brand stand out. How do you see yourself maintaining this approach and commitment to quality as your brand gets bigger?

I view jewellery not as an accessory but as an art form that plays a central role in our sentimental lives, marking our celebrations, our love and our grief. These pieces hold priceless value through the memories they encapsulate. Therefore, it is essential that my creations endure a lifetime, both in style and quality. The quality of materials and craftsmanship is of utmost importance to me, and I am committed to maintaining this standard regardless of the scale of operations. I believe this can achieved by continuing to collaborate with trusted suppliers and artisans and working closely with our craftsmen.

You also create a variety of bespoke pieces for specific clientele. What is your approach to this process, and have there been any questions or requests your clients made that stood out?

I am always excited to create a bespoke piece for clients. I begin with multiple conversations to understand their style, size preferences, and inspirations for the piece. This often involves a lot of back and forth to ensure I capture their vision while blending it with the brand’s design style. Understanding the client’s lifestyle is crucial, as it influences where and how the piece will be worn, ultimately shaping the final design.Once the initial discussions are complete, I start the design process. I create multiple designs and involve the client in a very visual process, allowing them to highlight elements they like or want to change. My favourite custom piece was an engagement ring for one of my best friends. Her partner brought a beautiful idea of incorporating elements of nature that they both loved, making it a truly unique and personal creation.

Some of the most awe-inspiring work you’ve done has been with large solid silver neckpieces. What was the inspiration behind such unique designs and how did you leverage the craftsmanship to make such a statement piece?

Creating these large neckpieces is my passion. They are truly works of art, crafted with instinct and expression rather than commercial appeal. They are perhaps the purest representation of my style. I began making these neckpieces in design school, where we were trained in silversmithing. Designing statement neckpieces felt natural to me, likely influenced by my upbringing in Papua New Guinea. I believe a neckpiece can convey so much sensuality and story, it is like painting with silver. After design school, it took some time to find the right craftsmen to bring these pieces to life. Eventually, I collaborated with the same workshop that produces my 18k gold lines, and they did an incredible job realising my vision.

Before you entered the jewelry world you earned a degree in architectural interior design. What would you say made you pivot to jewelry and how do both schools of design overlap?

It took me some time to realise that jewelry was the design discipline I wanted to pursue. Growing up, I was more exposed to architects and interior designers, and I knew I wanted to be in the design industry but couldn’t quite pinpoint where. It wasn’t until I met a jewelry designer that I had a crystallising moment of realisation. The principles of architecture and interior design can definitely be applied to jewelry; they gave me a sense of scale, presence, and permanence. This background provided me with a foundation in thinking three-dimensionally and understanding the importance of ergonomics. Additionally, I approached jewelry design with knowledge of construction and an understanding of the possibilities and limitations of what can be achieved.

Many of your collections have poetic overtones and inspirations, such as Midnight Adagio. Where do you pick up on this inspiration, and how do you go about incorporating stories into your jewelry?

Without sounding like an artistic stereotype, my creative process involves a lot of daydreaming! I thoroughly enjoy wandering through art galleries, reading literature, and strolling in parks. Art and design need space to breathe, and it’s challenging to create on-demand without prior inspiration. Describing how I bring inspiration to life is difficult, but I begin by drawing without judgment or restriction, allowing the idea to flow naturally. I create many variations of a single design, exploring how far I can play with each element. I hope this exploratory process is evident in my final designs.

Your brand currently has presences in New York, LA, Fort Worth, and Aspen. What is the next horizon for the brand, and are there markets you’re considering breaking into?

We recently opened with a retailer in Paris and Saint Tropez, which I’m very excited about. I would love to expand into more holiday town markets, as many retailers in these areas have brilliantly curated boutiques and foster wonderful relationships with returning clients. These businesses often have a family-style environment that I enjoy working with. Now that Maison Tjoeng is more established in the US, I’m focusing on building a bigger presence in Australia and Asia, which are my home markets and hold personal significance for me.

If you could have anyone wear one of your jewels today, who would it be and why?

Great question, I would love to see Joni Mitchell in one of my pieces. She is one of my favourite musicians who is also an accomplished painter and poet, I would be truly honoured to see her in one of my designs.

What is your personal and professional mantra?

My professional and personal mantras are one in the same;  Live with honesty, act with integrity, embrace gratitude, practice humility, and find beauty in everything.

Maison Tjoeng is important because it preserves traditional craftsmanship while infusing it with contemporary style. Each piece is meticulously hand-finished, showcasing Yasmin’s commitment to the art of jewelry making. Maison Tjoeng offers ready-to-wear collections available online and through select retailers, as well as bespoke pieces crafted for special occasions. To access a portal to this world of design visit www.maisontjoeng.com.

You may also be interested in..

Related Posts

Brenda Smith and the Art of Storied Design

Editorial

Making Your Communications Friendly for the Differently Abled

Editorial

Color First and Foremost: The Rock Hound

Editorial

Smiling Rocks, On Their Reason To Smile

Editorial